Sides / Potatoes & sweet potatoes

Double-Fried French Fries

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A pile of golden, crisp homemade French fries sprinkled with salt in a paper-lined basket.

Soak the cut russets, dry them completely, and fry twice. The one time we skipped the drying, the oil spat at the whole kitchen. Salt them the second they come out, while they're still crackling.

The short version

Cut russets into 3/8-inch sticks, soak in cold water for 30 minutes, then dry completely. Fry at 325°F for 5 minutes until pale and soft, rest at least 10 minutes, then fry at 375°F for 3 minutes until golden. Salt right away.

What makes ours better

what we fixed so you don’t have to

  • Soak the cut potatoes in cold water. Soaking pulls out surface starch, which is what makes fries gummy and dark before they're cooked through.

  • Fry twice at two temperatures. The first, cooler fry cooks the inside to a soft, fluffy center and dries the surface. The second, hotter fry makes the crust. One fry at one temperature can't do both.

  • Rest between fries. The pale fries cool and the surface dries further, which gives a thicker, crunchier shell. You can rest them for up to 2 hours, so dinner timing gets easier.

Prep
25 min
Fry
20 min
Total
1 hr 25 min incl. 40 min hands-off (go sit down)
Makes
about 4 servings

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

tap each one as it goes in. no double-salting.

Steps

deep breath. you’ve got this.

  1. Cut the fries

    Square off the sides of each potato, then slice into 3/8-inch planks and cut the planks into 3/8-inch sticks. Keep them even so they finish together.

    Skip the peeler if you like skins. Scrub the potatoes well and cut out any green spots.

  2. Soak in cold water

    Cover the fries with cold water in a large bowl and soak for 30 minutes. The water will turn cloudy with starch.

    About 30 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  3. Drain and dry completely

    Drain the fries and spread them on clean kitchen towels. Pat them very dry, pressing the towel into them. Wet potatoes make the oil spatter and the fries steam instead of crisp.

    Oil and water are a hazard. Dry them until the towel comes away nearly dry.

  4. Fry once at 325°F

    Pour the oil into a heavy 5-quart pot or Dutch oven and heat to 325°F. Fry about a third of the fries at a time for 5 minutes. They should stay pale and look soft and slightly wrinkled. Lift them out with a spider or slotted spoon onto a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Let the oil come back to temperature between batches.

    A thermometer clipped to the pot makes this much easier. Don't crowd the pot or the temperature drops and the fries get greasy.

    About 5 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  5. Rest the fries

    Let all the fries rest for at least 10 minutes. They can sit at room temperature for up to 2 hours, or in the refrigerator for a few hours more.

    About 10 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  6. Fry again at 375°F

    Raise the oil to 375°F. Fry the fries in batches for 2 to 3 minutes, until deep golden and crisp, and lift them onto a clean wire rack. Don't cover them.

    About 3 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  7. Salt while hot

    Sprinkle with the kosher salt right away, tossing in a big bowl so it sticks to the hot oil. Serve at once.

    Fries are crispest in the first 10 minutes. Serve them before anything else is plated.

Good to know

read this before somebody asks for seconds

  • Russets give the fluffiest centers. Yukon Golds make a creamier, slightly denser fry and are fine too.
  • Let the oil cool completely before you handle it. Strain it through a fine sieve and reuse it once or twice for savory frying.
  • For thinner shoestring fries, cut 3/16 inch and fry the second time for 2 to 3 minutes. Keep an eye on them since they brown fast.
  • Storage. Cooked fries are best right away. Leftovers keep in the refrigerator for 2 days and reheat in a 425°F oven or air fryer for 6 to 8 minutes. The first-fried, pale fries can be frozen on a sheet pan, then bagged, and fried from frozen at 375°F for 4 to 5 minutes.

Questions, answered

the questions my cousins text me

Why are my homemade french fries soggy?

Usually the potatoes were wet, the pot was crowded, or the oil was too cool. Dry them thoroughly, fry in small batches, and use a thermometer so the oil returns to 325°F and 375°F.

Do I really have to fry them twice?

For fries that are crisp outside and fluffy inside, yes. One fry either leaves the center raw or burns the outside. The second fry is quick.

What are the best potatoes for french fries?

Russets, because their high starch gives a fluffy center and a crisp crust. Yukon Golds are a good second choice.

Can I make french fries in an air fryer or oven?

You can, but the texture is more roasted than fried. For an oven version, toss soaked, dried sticks with 2 tablespoons of oil and bake at 450°F for 30 to 40 minutes, turning a few times.

Can I make them ahead for a party?

Yes. Do the first fry, then rest the fries for up to 2 hours. Do the second fry just before serving.

What oil is best for frying?

Any neutral oil with a high smoke point, such as peanut, canola or vegetable oil. Olive oil's smoke point is too low for the second fry.

From the table

Made it? Tell me how it went, and who went back for seconds when they thought nobody was looking.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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