Sides / Potatoes & sweet potatoes

Roasted Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Brown Butter and Sage

Jump to recipe
A bowl of bright orange mashed sweet potatoes swirled with brown butter and topped with crisp fried sage leaves.

Roast them whole until they leak syrup onto the pan, which asks nothing of you but an hour. Then mash with brown butter and crisp sage, and salt it like you mean it. A squeeze of lemon keeps it bright.

The short version

Roast whole sweet potatoes at 400°F until soft and leaking syrup, 50 to 70 minutes, then scoop and mash with brown butter, crisp sage, warm cream, salt and a little lemon. About 1½ hours, mostly hands-off. Don't boil them.

What makes ours better

why ours wins the argument at dinner

  • Roast them whole instead of boiling. Boiled sweet potatoes soak up water and mash thin and bland. Roasted in their skins, the flesh steams in its own juice and the sugars caramelize, so the mash is dense, velvety and deeply flavored.

  • Brown the butter with sage. Nutty brown butter rounds out the sweetness, and sage leaves fried in it turn crisp and savory, a topping and a seasoning in one pan.

  • Finish with lemon and plenty of salt. Sweet potatoes need more salt than you'd expect, and a teaspoon or two of lemon juice keeps them from tasting cloying. You won't taste lemon, just sweet potato.

What you need

the stars of the show

  • Orange-fleshed sweet potatoes4 pounds
  • Unsalted butter6 tablespoons
  • Fresh sage12 leaf
  • Heavy cream or whole milk½ cup

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
15 min
Roast
1 hr 10 min
Total
1 hr 35 min incl. 10 min hands-off (go sit down)
Makes
about 6 cups, 8 servings

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

yes, all of the butter

Steps

apron on. phone down. mostly.

  1. Roast the sweet potatoes

    Heat the oven to 400°F and line a rimmed sheet pan with foil or parchment. Prick each sweet potato a few times with a fork and lay them on the pan with space between. Roast until a knife slides into the thickest one with no resistance, the skins look puffy and loose, and dark syrup has started to bubble out onto the pan, 50 to 70 minutes.

    Line the pan. The syrup that leaks out burns onto bare metal.

    About 55 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  2. Cool and scoop

    Let them cool on the pan until you can handle them, about 10 minutes. Split each one and scoop the flesh into a large bowl, leaving the skins behind. Any caramelized bits stuck to the skins go in the bowl too.

    About 10 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  3. Brown the butter with sage

    Melt the butter in a small light-colored skillet over medium heat. Once it foams, add the whole sage leaves and swirl the pan. In 3 to 5 minutes the leaves will turn crisp and dark green, the foam will settle, and the solids at the bottom will be nutty brown. Lift the leaves out onto a paper towel and take the pan off the heat. Stir the chopped sage into the butter.

    Watch the butter, not the clock. It goes from brown to burnt in under a minute.

    About 4 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  4. Mash

    Pour the brown butter and its brown specks over the sweet potatoes. Add the salt and pepper and mash with a potato masher until mostly smooth. Add the warm cream a splash at a time, mashing as you go, until the potatoes are soft and spoonable but still hold a swirl.

  5. Season and serve

    Stir in the lemon juice, taste, and add more salt if they taste flat; they usually need it. Spoon into a warm bowl, crumble the crisp sage leaves over the top and serve.

Good to know

things I learned the hard way, so you can skip that part

  • For sweet mashed sweet potatoes, skip the sage and lemon. Mash in the plain browned butter with 2 tablespoons brown sugar, ½ teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon grated orange zest, use orange juice in place of some of the cream, and add 1 tablespoon bourbon if you like. Top with toasted pecans.
  • Pick potatoes of similar size so they finish together. Pull small ones off the pan as they soften.
  • Make ahead: mash up to 2 days ahead, spread in a buttered baking dish, cover and refrigerate. Reheat covered at 375°F for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring once. Fry the sage fresh, or reheat the leaves on the pan for the last 2 minutes.
  • Halve the recipe for 4 people; the roasting time stays the same.
  • Storage. Refrigerated, covered, 4 days. Freezes flat in a zip-top bag for 3 months. Reheat in a covered dish at 350°F or on the stove over low heat with a splash of milk.

Questions, answered

asked and answered at the kitchen counter

Is it better to boil or roast sweet potatoes for mashing?

Roast. Boiling waters them down; roasting whole concentrates their flavor and caramelizes the sugars, and there's no peeling or draining.

Do I need to peel sweet potatoes before roasting?

No. Roast them in their skins, then scoop out the flesh. The skins slip right off a fully roasted sweet potato.

How do I know when roasted sweet potatoes are done?

A knife slides through the thickest part like butter, the skin looks loose and wrinkled, and syrup has started leaking onto the pan. If you feel any firmness in the center, give them 10 more minutes.

Why are my mashed sweet potatoes stringy?

Some varieties are naturally fibrous, and underroasted ones are worse. Roast until very soft, then push the flesh through a coarse sieve or ricer, or whip briefly with a hand mixer and the fibers will catch on the beaters.

Can I make mashed sweet potatoes ahead?

Yes, up to 2 days. Refrigerate them in a buttered baking dish and reheat covered at 375°F for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring once.

From the table

Made it? Tell me everything. Especially if somebody said it was better than their mother’s. I’ll keep your secret.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

Step 1 of 5