Soups & stews / Chili

Texas Chili with Dried Chiles

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A bowl of dark red Texas chili with chunks of beef, no beans, topped with chopped onion and served with cornbread.

Dried chiles toast until the kitchen smells smoky, then blend into a deep red sauce for big cubes of seared chuck. We give it two and a half hours on the stove, a splash of vinegar at the end, and nobody wanders far from the kitchen.

The short version

Toast and soak dried chiles and blend them into a smooth sauce. Sear chuck cubes in two batches, then simmer with the sauce, stock and beer for about 2½ hours. Stir in a masa slurry and a splash of vinegar at the end. Do not rush the searing.

What makes ours better

small changes, very loud compliments

  • Use whole dried chiles, not chili powder. Toasting ancho and guajillo chiles, soaking them, and blending them gives a fruity, smoky sauce that powder from a jar can't match. It's 20 minutes of work for most of the flavor.

  • Sear the beef in batches in bacon fat. Crowding the pot steams the meat instead of browning it. Two batches in bacon fat build the dark crust the whole pot is built on.

  • Toast and grind the cumin. Whole seeds toasted for a minute smell like a different spice. It's the cheapest step in the recipe.

  • Thicken with masa and finish with vinegar. A spoonful of masa harina gives a silky body and a faint corn note. The vinegar wakes up a pot that's been simmering for hours.

What you need

check the pantry before you promise anyone

  • Dried ancho chiles4 large
  • Beef stock1 cup
  • Thick-cut bacon4 slices
  • Boneless beef chuck roast4 pounds
  • Tomato paste2 tablespoons
  • Lager or pilsner beer12 ounces
  • Tomato puree1 cup
  • Masa harina3 tablespoons

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
40 min
Simmer
2 hr 45 min
Total
3 hr 25 min
Makes
about 10 cups, 8 hearty bowls

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

Chile sauce

Chili

read it twice. buy it once.

Steps

go slow. the good part can’t be rushed.

  1. Toast and soak the chiles

    Toast the chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat for 30 to 60 seconds per side, pressing them flat, until they smell fruity and darken slightly. Cover with hot water in a bowl, weigh down with a plate, and soak 20 minutes until soft.

    Pull them as soon as they smell toasty. Scorched chiles make bitter chili.

    About 20 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  2. Blend the sauce

    Drain the chiles and blend with 1 cup beef stock until completely smooth. Strain through a sieve if you want it silky. Set aside.

  3. Render the bacon, sear the beef

    Cook the bacon in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Lift it out and leave the fat. Pat the beef dry and toss with 2 teaspoons salt. Raise the heat to medium-high and sear the beef in two batches, leaving each batch alone for 3 to 4 minutes per side until deeply browned. Move it to a bowl.

    If the cubes don't sizzle when they hit the pot, wait. A pale sear means a pale chili.

  4. Cook the onion and paste

    Cook the onion in the pot over medium heat, scraping up the brown bits, until soft, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the paste turns brick red, 2 to 3 minutes.

  5. Toast and grind the spices

    Toast the cumin seeds in a small dry skillet for about 1 minute until fragrant, then grind them with the oregano in a spice grinder or mortar.

  6. Simmer

    Return the beef and bacon to the pot. Add the chile sauce, ground spices, coffee, beer, 2 cups stock and tomato puree, then the 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, cover, and drop to a low simmer. Cook 2 to 2½ hours, stirring now and then, until the beef is fork-tender. Take the lid off for the last 30 minutes if the chili is thinner than you want.

    About 150 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  7. Thicken and finish

    Ladle about 1 cup of the liquid into a bowl and whisk in the masa harina until smooth. Stir it back into the pot and simmer 10 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, then taste and add salt. Let it sit 10 minutes before serving.

    About 10 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

Good to know

things I learned the hard way, so you can skip that part

  • Brisket or boneless short rib work in place of chuck. Cook until tender, which is the cue, not the clock.
  • The heat comes from the árbol and from you. For a mild pot skip the árbol. For a hotter one add two and leave their seeds in.
  • Make it a day ahead if you can. The chili is better after a night in the fridge. Serve with buttermilk skillet cornbread.
  • Storage. Refrigerator up to 5 days. Freezer up to 3 months. Reheat gently with a splash of stock.

Questions, answered

asked and answered at the kitchen counter

Why no beans in Texas chili?

In Texas the dish is a stew of meat and chiles, and beans are a side if you want them. If you like beans, warm a can on the side and spoon it in at the table.

Can I use chili powder instead of whole dried chiles?

Yes, in a pinch. Use 5 tablespoons of good chili powder, bloom it in the fat with the garlic for a minute, and skip the soaking steps. The flavor is flatter.

What cut of beef is best for Texas chili?

Chuck roast. It has enough fat and collagen to turn soft and rich over a long simmer. Lean cuts like round dry out.

Do I have to use coffee and beer?

No. Replace them with 2 more cups of beef stock. You lose a little bitterness and depth, but the chili still works.

How do I thicken chili without beans?

Masa harina. Whisk it with hot liquid first so it doesn't clump, then simmer for 10 minutes. You can also just reduce the pot with the lid off.

Can I make this in a slow cooker?

Do the searing and chile sauce on the stove, then cook on low 7 to 8 hours. Add the masa and vinegar at the end.

From the table

Made it? Tell me everything. Especially if somebody said it was better than their mother’s. I’ll keep your secret.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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