Desserts / Pies

Double-Crust Apple Pie

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A baked double-crust apple pie with a deep golden top and four slashes bubbling with thick juice, one slice removed to show apples packed right up to the crust.

Cook the apples first, so the top crust rests right on the fruit with no sad gap underneath. The house smells like cinnamon all afternoon, and the two-hour cool-down is the hardest part for anyone holding a fork. (Everyone. Everyone is holding a fork.)

The short version

Cook 3 pounds of sliced apples with butter, sugar, cinnamon and a spoon of cornstarch until glossy and just tender, cool them, pile into a bottom crust, top it, vent, egg wash. Bake at 425°F for 20 minutes, then 375°F for 30 to 35, until juices bubble thickly through the slashes. Cool at least 2 hours. Don't put warm apples on raw dough.

What makes ours better

why ours wins the argument at dinner

  • Cook the apples first. Raw apples shrink as they bake, and by then the crust has set stiff and can't follow them down. That's the gap. A few minutes in a pot softens the slices so they settle before they're sealed in, and the gentle heat firms their pectin so they hold their shape instead of cooking into sauce.

  • Two kinds of apples. A tart, firm apple like Granny Smith keeps its bite and its acid. A sweet, firm one like Honeycrisp or Braeburn brings perfume and softness. All of one kind tastes either sharp or flat.

  • Vent generously and use an all-butter crust. Steam that can't get out props the top crust up like a tent. Four big slashes let it escape, and a butter crust with just enough water is tender enough to settle onto the fruit as it bakes.

  • Bake it on a hot sheet pan, low in the oven. A preheated sheet pan on the lowest rack hits the base with heat, so the bottom crust browns instead of steaming under the fruit. It also catches the drips.

What you need

the stars of the show

  • Batch all-butter pie crust1
  • Egg1 large
  • Granulated sugar2 teaspoons
  • Firm apples3 pounds
  • Packed light brown sugar¼ cup
  • Ground cinnamon¾ teaspoon

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
35 min
Bake
1 hr 10 min
Total
4 hr 30 min incl. 2 hr 45 min hands-off (go sit down)
Makes
one 9-inch double-crust pie, 8 slices

Ingredients

Makes 8 slices

Crust

Filling

read it twice. buy it once.

Steps

apron on. phone down. mostly.

  1. Slice the apples

    Peel, quarter and core the apples, then slice them ¼ inch thick; you'll have about 10 cups. Toss them with the lemon juice in a big bowl as you go so they don't brown. In a small bowl, stir together the granulated sugar, brown sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon and salt.

  2. Soften the apples

    Melt the butter in a Dutch oven or a wide pot of at least 5 quarts over medium-high heat until it foams. Add the apples, toss to coat, cover, and cook 5 to 7 minutes, stirring twice, until the slices bend without snapping and the outsides have turned translucent while the centers are still firm.

    Don't cook them soft. They bake for almost an hour after this.

    About 6 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  3. Glaze the juices

    Sprinkle the sugar mixture over the apples and stir. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring, until the juices in the bottom of the pot turn thick, glossy and syrupy and cling to the slices, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest if you're using it.

    About 3 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  4. Cool the apples

    Spread the apples and their glaze on a sheet pan in a single layer and let them cool to room temperature, 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, roll one dough disk to a 12-inch round, line a 9-inch pie plate without trimming the overhang, and refrigerate it. Roll the second disk to 12 inches on a piece of parchment and refrigerate that too.

    Warm filling melts the butter in the crust before it reaches the oven, and the flakes go with it.

    About 25 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  5. Fill and top

    Set a sheet pan on the lowest oven rack and heat the oven to 425°F. Pile the cooled apples into the shell, mounding them slightly in the center, and scrape in every bit of glaze. Lay the top crust over, press the two edges together, trim to a 1-inch overhang, fold it under and crimp. Cut four 2-inch slashes radiating from the center. Brush with the egg wash and sprinkle with the sugar. Freeze the pie for 15 minutes (or refrigerate 30) until the crust is firm.

    About 15 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  6. Bake hot, then lower

    Set the pie on the hot sheet pan and bake at 425°F for 20 minutes, until the top starts to color. Lower the oven to 375°F and bake 30 to 35 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden brown and thick juices bubble up through the slashes. If the rim is browning too fast, lay strips of foil over it.

    Bubbling juice is the doneness cue, not color alone. If the slashes are quiet, give it 5 more minutes.

    About 50 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  7. Cool before cutting

    Cool on a rack at least 2 hours, better 3. The juices set as it cools, and since the apples went in already cooked, the slices come out clean and full. To serve warm, rewarm the whole pie at 350°F for 15 minutes.

    About 120 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

Good to know

read this before somebody asks for seconds

  • Apples. Stay with firm varieties such as Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Braeburn, Jonagold and Pink Lady. McIntosh and other soft eating apples collapse into sauce and shrink the most, which is how gaps happen.
  • This fills a standard 9-inch plate generously. A deep-dish plate will look underfilled; scale the filling up with the servings slider and expect the bake to run about 10 minutes longer.
  • Make ahead. Cook the apple filling up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate it; bring it to room temperature before filling the crust. The baked pie keeps at room temperature for 2 days.
  • A cheddar crust is an old pairing that still works. Add 1 cup of shredded sharp cheddar to the pie crust dough with the butter.
  • Storage. Loosely covered at room temperature, 2 days; after that, refrigerate up to 4 days. Rewarm slices at 350°F for 10 to 15 minutes. Freeze the baked, cooled pie wrapped well for 3 months; thaw overnight and crisp it at 350°F for 15 to 20 minutes.

Questions, answered

asked and answered at the kitchen counter

Why is there a gap between my apple pie crust and the filling?

Raw apples lose a lot of volume as they bake, and the top crust sets before they finish shrinking. Cooking the apples first lets them shrink before they're sealed in. Venting the top so steam escapes and using a tender butter crust both help it settle onto the fruit.

What are the best apples for apple pie?

Firm ones that hold their shape, in a tart-and-sweet mix. Granny Smith for tartness, plus Honeycrisp, Braeburn, Jonagold or Pink Lady for sweetness and aroma. Skip McIntosh and soft eating apples; they turn to mush.

Why is my apple pie runny?

Either the juices weren't cooked down before the apples went in, or the pie was cut too soon; the filling thickens as it cools. Boil the juices until they're syrupy in the pot, bake until they bubble thickly through the vents, and give it the full 2 hours on the rack.

Can I make apple pie ahead?

Cook the filling up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate it, then assemble and bake the day you serve. Or bake the whole pie a day early and keep it at room temperature; rewarm it at 350°F for 15 minutes before serving.

How do I keep the bottom crust from getting soggy?

Cooled filling, a hot sheet pan on the lowest rack and the full bake. A glass pie plate lets you check that the bottom is golden before you pull it. If your filling is extra juicy, a tablespoon each of flour and sugar sprinkled over the bottom crust before filling soaks up the first run of juice.

Do I need to peel the apples?

Yes. The skins turn tough and papery in the oven and keep the slices from settling together, which is part of how you get a full, gap-free pie.

From the table

Made it? Tell me how it went, and who went back for seconds when they thought nobody was looking.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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