Dinner / Sandwiches, burgers & pizza

Black Bean Burgers That Hold Together

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A black bean burger on a toasted bun with guacamole and salsa, with a second patty seared golden brown beside it on a board.

We've all flipped one of these and watched it collapse. Dry the beans in the oven and chill the patties, and they sear to a crisp crust and stay on the bun, with a little smoky chipotle in every bite.

The short version

Dry canned black beans in a 325°F oven, mash half of them with scallions, cilantro and chipotle, stir in panko and egg, chill the patties, then sear 4 to 5 minutes a side. About 45 minutes, and the chill is the step not to skip.

What makes ours better

small changes, very loud compliments

  • Dry the beans in the oven. Canned beans carry a lot of water, and water is what turns patties to mush. Fifteen minutes in a low oven dries them until the skins split, and the mix binds instead of slumping.

  • Mash half, keep half whole. The mashed beans act as glue and the whole ones give you texture. All mashed tastes like paste; all whole falls apart.

  • Chill the patties before cooking. Twenty minutes in the fridge lets the panko soak up moisture and firms the patties, so they flip cleanly and brown instead of steaming.

  • Add chipotle and a splash of soy sauce. Smoke and salty depth stand in for the meatiness a bean patty lacks.

What you need

check the pantry before you promise anyone

  • Black beans2 cans
  • Scallions4 large
  • Fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems¼ cup
  • Chipotle pepper in adobo1 large
  • Ground cumin1 teaspoon
  • Soy sauce1 tablespoon
  • Panko breadcrumbs1 cup
  • Burger buns4 large

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
15 min
Cook
25 min
Total
1 hr incl. 20 min hands-off (go sit down)
Makes
4 burgers

Ingredients

Makes 4 burgers

yes, all of the butter

Steps

apron on. phone down. mostly.

  1. Dry the beans

    Heat the oven to 325°F. Spread the drained beans on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake 15 minutes, until the surfaces look dry and some skins have split. Let them cool for a few minutes.

    Pat the rinsed beans with a towel before they go in. They dry faster.

    About 15 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  2. Blend half the mixture

    Put half the beans in a food processor with the scallions, cilantro, chipotle and its sauce, cumin, paprika, garlic powder, salt and soy sauce. Pulse until it forms a rough, sticky paste with some bean pieces left. No processor? Mash that half with a fork or potato masher and finely chop the scallions, cilantro and chipotle.

  3. Mix in the rest

    Scrape the paste into a large bowl. Add the remaining whole beans, the panko and the eggs. Mix with your hands, squeezing, until it sticks together when you press a handful. Some whole beans should still show.

  4. Shape and chill

    With wet hands, shape the mix into 4 patties about 3/4 inch thick. Set them on a plate or lined tray and refrigerate 20 minutes, or up to a day, covered.

    Wet hands are the trick. Dry hands pull the mix right off the patty.

    About 20 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  5. Sear the burgers

    Heat the oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat until it shimmers. Cook the patties 4 to 5 minutes on the first side without moving them, until a golden crust forms. Flip gently and cook 4 minutes more, until browned and hot in the center.

    Flip only once. Pushing at them breaks the crust before it forms.

    About 9 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  6. Build the burgers

    Serve on toasted buns with your toppings. Guacamole and a spoon of salsa suit them well.

Good to know

the stuff I’d tell you over the phone

  • If the mix feels loose after mixing, add 2 tablespoons more panko and let it sit for 5 minutes before shaping. Brands of canned beans vary in moisture.
  • For the grill, oil the grates well and cook over medium heat, 4 to 5 minutes a side. Use a thin spatula and flip once. A cast-iron skillet is easier.
  • Vegan version, replace the eggs with 1/3 cup mashed sweet potato and use a vegan bun. The patties are a bit softer, so chill them a full 30 minutes.
  • Storage. Cooked patties keep in the fridge 4 days. Freeze them cooked, in a single layer then bagged, up to 2 months. Reheat in a skillet or a 350°F oven until hot throughout.

Questions, answered

asked and answered at the kitchen counter

Why do my black bean burgers fall apart?

Almost always too much moisture. Dry the beans in the oven, keep some whole and some mashed, include the egg and panko, and chill the patties before cooking. Flip them only once.

Can I make black bean burgers without eggs?

Yes. Mashed sweet potato works well, about 1/3 cup in place of the two eggs. Chill the shaped patties 30 minutes so they firm up.

Can I bake black bean burgers instead of frying?

Yes. Bake on a lightly oiled sheet at 400°F for 12 minutes, flip, and bake 8 to 10 minutes more. You get a softer crust than the skillet gives.

Can I make the patties ahead?

Shape them and refrigerate, covered, up to a day before cooking. They get firmer and are easier to flip.

Can I use dried beans?

Yes. About 1 cup dried black beans, cooked until tender, gives roughly the amount in two cans. Drain them well and dry them in the oven as in step 1.

How do I know when the burgers are done?

Both sides should be deeply golden and the center hot. Press one gently. It should feel firm, not squishy.

From the table

Made it? Tell me everything. Especially if somebody said it was better than their mother’s. I’ll keep your secret.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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