Baking / Biscuits & rolls

Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits

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A pan of tall square buttermilk biscuits baked side by side, tops deep golden and glossy with butter, one pulled apart to show flaky layers.

Frozen butter, three folds, a hot oven. The biscuits bake touching, shoulder to shoulder like cousins in a family photo, and come out tall with layers that peel apart while they're still steaming.

The short version

Grate frozen butter into flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt, stir in cold buttermilk, then pat and fold the dough in thirds three times. Pat it 1 inch thick, cut 12 squares, chill 10 minutes and bake touching at 425°F for 18 to 22 minutes. Keep everything cold.

What makes ours better

what we fixed so you don’t have to

  • Freeze the butter and grate it. Frozen butter grated on the large holes of a box grater spreads through the flour in thin flakes in seconds, with no warm hands involved. Those flakes melt in the oven and turn to steam, and the steam is what pushes the layers apart.

  • Fold the dough like a letter, three times. Each fold stacks the butter-streaked dough into more layers, so three folds give you a biscuit that peels apart in sheets. It takes two minutes and is the biggest difference between a flaky biscuit and a fluffy one.

  • Cut squares with a knife. A sharp knife pressed straight down leaves clean edges that rise tall, and squares use every bit of dough. Rerolled scraps from round cutters come out tough and short.

  • Chill before baking. Ten minutes in the freezer firms the butter back up after all that handling, so it melts in the oven instead of on the counter. The biscuits rise taller and straighter.

What you need

the usual suspects

  • Unsalted butter¾ cup
  • All-purpose flour3 cups
  • Cold buttermilk1¼ cups

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
25 min
Bake
20 min
Total
55 min incl. 10 min hands-off (go sit down)
Makes
12 biscuits, about 2½ by 3 inches

Ingredients

Makes 12 biscuits

read it twice. buy it once.

Steps

nobody opens the oven door. looking at you, Dad.

  1. Heat the oven, line the pan

    Set a rack in the upper-middle position and heat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Make room in your freezer for the pan.

  2. Grate the butter into the flour

    Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Grate the frozen butter on the large holes of a box grater straight into the bowl, stopping to toss the shreds in the flour every so often so they don't clump. Toss until every shred is coated.

    Hold the butter by its wrapper. Warm fingers soften it faster than you'd think.

  3. Stir in the buttermilk

    Pour in the buttermilk and stir with a spatula just until there are no big pockets of dry flour. The dough will be shaggy and look too dry in places; that's right. If a lot of flour is still loose at the bottom, add buttermilk a tablespoon at a time.

    Stop as soon as it holds together in clumps. Overmixing makes tough, flat biscuits.

  4. Fold the dough three times

    Turn the dough onto a floured counter and press it into a rough rectangle about ¾ inch thick. Fold it in thirds like a letter, turn it 90 degrees, and press it out again. Repeat for three folds in all, dusting with flour if it sticks. By the third fold it will be smooth and you'll see streaks of butter.

  5. Cut into squares

    Pat the dough into a rectangle about 9 by 8 inches and 1 inch thick. With a sharp floured knife or bench scraper, press straight down to cut it into 12 pieces, about 2½ by 3 inches. Don't saw or drag; a pinched edge won't rise.

  6. Pan and chill

    Set the biscuits on the lined pan with their sides just touching, so they push each other upward as they bake. Freeze the pan for 10 minutes, or refrigerate it for 30 if your kitchen is warm.

    About 10 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  7. Bake

    Bake until the biscuits are tall, the tops are deep golden brown and the sides where they touch look dry and set rather than doughy, 18 to 22 minutes. Rotate the pan once at 12 minutes.

    Pale biscuits are underbaked inside. Go for deep golden.

    About 18 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  8. Brush with butter and serve

    Brush the hot biscuits with the melted butter and let them cool on the pan for 5 minutes. Pull them apart and serve warm.

Good to know

things I learned the hard way, so you can skip that part

  • No buttermilk? Use 1¼ cups whole milk with 4 teaspoons lemon juice stirred in and left 5 minutes, or 1¼ cups plain whole-milk yogurt thinned with a few tablespoons of milk. For plain whole milk, leave out the baking soda.
  • For crustier sides, space the biscuits 1 inch apart instead of touching; they'll be a little shorter.
  • Make ahead. Cut biscuits freeze well. Freeze them on the pan until hard, then bag them for up to 2 months, and bake straight from frozen at 425°F, adding 3 to 5 minutes.
  • For softer, fluffier biscuits, skip the folds and pat the dough out once.
  • Storage. Best the day they're baked. Wrapped airtight at room temperature, 2 days; frozen baked, 2 months. Reheat wrapped in foil at 350°F for 8 to 10 minutes.

Questions, answered

the questions my cousins text me

Why are my biscuits flat?

Usually the butter got warm, the dough was overworked, or the baking powder is old. Keep the butter frozen, stop mixing as soon as the dough holds, cut straight down without twisting, and check the date on the baking powder.

Why are my biscuits tough or dry?

Too much flour or too much handling. Spoon and level the flour (or weigh it), use only enough flour on the counter to keep the dough from sticking, and don't knead it beyond the three folds.

Can I make biscuits without a biscuit cutter?

Yes, and we do. Cut squares with a sharp knife or bench scraper, pressing straight down. They rise just as tall and there are no scraps to reroll.

Can I make biscuit dough ahead?

Yes. Cut the biscuits and freeze them on the pan, then bag them; they keep 2 months and bake from frozen at 425°F with 3 to 5 extra minutes. You can also refrigerate cut biscuits, covered, overnight and bake them straight from the fridge.

Can I use salted butter?

Yes. Cut the kosher salt to ¾ teaspoon.

How do I know when biscuits are done?

The tops are deep golden brown and the sides between biscuits look dry and set, not wet and doughy. If you're unsure, pull one from the middle and peek at the seam.

From the table

Made it? Tell me everything. Especially if somebody said it was better than their mother’s. I’ll keep your secret.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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