Sides / Potatoes & sweet potatoes

Fluffy, Buttery Mashed Potatoes

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A wide bowl of fluffy mashed potatoes with a melting pat of butter in a well on top, scattered with chopped chives, a spoon resting at the side.

Rinse, dry, rice, then a whole stick of melted butter before the warm milk. Yes, a whole stick. It serves eight and somehow empties like it serves four, with the dog sitting exactly where the spoon drips.

The short version

Peel and chunk 3 pounds of Yukon Golds, rinse them, and simmer in salted water until a knife slides in with no resistance, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, dry them in the hot pot for a minute, rice or mash, then stir in a stick of melted butter and ¾ cup of warm milk. Don't skip drying the potatoes.

What makes ours better

what we fixed so you don’t have to

  • Rinse off the starch, then dry the potatoes. Loose surface starch is what turns mashed potatoes gluey. A cold rinse before cooking washes most of it away, and a minute in the empty pot after draining steams off the water that would otherwise thin out the butter.

  • Butter first, then warm milk. Melted butter coats the potato starch before any watery liquid reaches it, which keeps the texture light and the flavor forward. Warm the milk; cold milk cools the potatoes and tightens them.

  • Rice them, or mash by hand. Never blend. A ricer or food mill breaks the potatoes into fine, fluffy grains with almost no stirring; a hand masher is fine if you like a little texture. A blender, food processor or stand mixer overworks the starch into paste in seconds.

What you need

the usual suspects

  • Yukon Gold potatoes3 pounds
  • Unsalted butter8 tablespoons
  • Whole milk or half-and-half¾ cup

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
15 min
Boil
20 min
Total
35 min
Makes
about 6 cups, 8 servings

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

read it twice. buy it once.

Steps

nobody opens the oven door. looking at you, Dad.

  1. Cut and rinse

    Peel the potatoes and cut them into even 1½-inch chunks so they cook at the same rate. Put them in a colander and rinse under cold running water, tossing, until the water running out is clear instead of cloudy, about a minute.

  2. Simmer until tender

    Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water by an inch and add the tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a steady simmer and cook until a paring knife slides into the biggest chunk with no resistance, 15 to 20 minutes.

    Boiling hard breaks up the outsides before the centers are done. Keep it at a simmer.

    About 15 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  3. Drain and dry

    Drain well and return the potatoes to the empty pot over low heat. Shake and stir for about a minute, until the surfaces look dry and floury and steam stops rising. Meanwhile melt the butter and warm the milk, in a small saucepan or the microwave; the milk should be hot to the touch, not boiling.

    About 1 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  4. Rice or mash

    Take the pot off the heat. Press the potatoes through a ricer or food mill back into the pot, or mash with a hand masher until no lumps remain. Work quickly while they're hot.

    Not a blender, not a food processor, not a stand mixer. They turn potatoes to glue.

  5. Butter, then milk

    Pour the melted butter over the potatoes and fold it in with a rubber spatula until it disappears. Then stir in the warm milk a splash at a time until the potatoes are creamy but still hold a soft peak on the spoon. Stir only as much as it takes; every extra stroke makes them heavier.

  6. Season and serve

    Stir in the salt and pepper, taste, and add more salt or a little more warm milk if they're stiff. Pile into a warm bowl, make a well on top for gravy or another pat of butter, and scatter the chives over.

Good to know

the stuff I’d tell you over the phone

  • Yukon Golds taste buttery and mash creamy; russets come out fluffier and drier and take a bit more milk. Red or waxy new potatoes turn gluey, so skip them.
  • For a richer bowl, swap half-and-half or heavy cream for the milk. For tang, use buttermilk or stir in ¼ cup sour cream at the end, and add those cold, since heating them can curdle.
  • Add-ins that work are the peeled cloves from 2 heads of roasted garlic mashed in, 4 finely chopped green onions or ¼ cup chives warmed in the milk, or up to 1 cup (4 ounces) grated Gruyère, sharp cheddar or Swiss stirred in at the end.
  • To hold them, cover the bowl with foil and keep it in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes, or set a covered bowl over a pot of barely simmering water for longer.
  • Storage. Refrigerated, covered, 3 to 4 days. Reheat in a saucepan over low heat or in the microwave with a splash of milk, stirring until smooth. They freeze for 2 months when they're this buttery; thaw and reheat the same way.

Questions, answered

the questions my cousins text me

Why are my mashed potatoes gummy?

Overworked starch. Either they went through a blender or mixer, got stirred too long, or the surface starch never got rinsed off. Rice or hand-mash, add the butter first, and stop stirring the moment they come together.

Can I make mashed potatoes ahead?

Yes. Make them up to 2 days ahead, refrigerate, and reheat over low heat or in a slow cooker on low with a splash of milk, stirring until hot and smooth; a knob of butter at the end brings back the shine. Or hold a fresh batch covered in a warm oven for 30 minutes.

Should I leave the skins on?

You can with Yukon Golds. Scrub them well; a ricer leaves the skins behind in the basket, and a hand masher mixes them in for a rustic, flecked mash. For the smoothest result, peel.

How many potatoes per person?

About ½ pound per person as a side, a little less at Thanksgiving when the table is crowded. This recipe's 3 pounds serves 8; scale it up or down in the same ratio.

Can I use a hand mixer?

Briefly, on low, once the butter is in, and stop the moment they're smooth. It's easy to overshoot into paste, so a masher or ricer is safer.

Which potatoes are best for mashing?

Yukon Gold for flavor and a creamy mash; russet for the fluffiest, lightest texture. Both work here. Avoid red and new potatoes, which go gluey.

From the table

Made it? Tell me everything. Especially if somebody said it was better than their mother’s. I’ll keep your secret.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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