Dinner / Pasta

Spaghetti Carbonara

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A white bowl of spaghetti carbonara with a glossy egg sauce, crisp guanciale pieces and cracked black pepper.

Our first carbonara turned into scrambled eggs on spaghetti, and we ate every bite. The fix is simple: toss the hot pasta and crisp guanciale with the eggs and Pecorino in a bowl, off the heat, and add pasta water until it shines.

The short version

Whisk eggs, yolks, cheese and pepper in a big bowl. Crisp the guanciale, boil the spaghetti, then toss the hot pasta and fat into the bowl off the heat with a splash of pasta water until glossy. Serve right away.

What makes ours better

why ours wins the argument at dinner

  • Add extra yolks. Two whole eggs plus two yolks give a richer, more custardy sauce that clings better than whole eggs alone, with no cream.

  • Mix in the bowl, off the heat. Eggs set at a lower temperature than a hot pan. Tossing the pasta with the sauce in a bowl cooks them gently, so you get a sauce instead of scrambled eggs.

  • Start the guanciale in a cold pan. Slow heat renders the fat out of the meat before it crisps, giving you more fat for the sauce and chewy-crisp pieces.

  • Crack the pepper fresh. Carbonara should taste distinctly of pepper. A teaspoon, freshly cracked, gives it the warm bite that balances the rich eggs and fat.

What you need

the stars of the show

  • Guanciale or pancetta6 ounces
  • Eggs2 large
  • Finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan1 cup
  • Spaghetti12 ounces

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
10 min
Cook
15 min
Total
25 min
Makes
4 servings, about 12 ounces of spaghetti

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

tap each one as it goes in. no double-salting.

Steps

apron on. phone down. mostly.

  1. Start the water

    Bring a large pot of water, about 4 quarts, to a boil. Add the kosher salt; the cheese and guanciale are salty, so don't add more.

  2. Mix the egg sauce

    In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, cheese and pepper into a thick paste. Set it near the stove.

  3. Render the guanciale

    Put the guanciale in a large cold skillet and set it over medium heat. Cook, stirring now and then, 8 to 10 minutes, until the fat has rendered and the pieces are golden with crisp edges. Turn off the heat. Leave the fat in the pan.

    Don't drain the fat. It's the base of the sauce.

    About 9 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  4. Boil the spaghetti

    Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 1 minute less than the package says. Scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain.

    About 9 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  5. Toss with the fat

    Add the drained spaghetti to the skillet and toss in the guanciale fat for 30 seconds, off the heat.

  6. Combine off the heat

    Wait 30 seconds so the pasta can cool slightly, then tip it, with the guanciale and fat, into the egg bowl. Add ¼ cup of pasta water and toss and stir hard for 1 minute, until the sauce turns creamy and glossy and coats every strand.

    Stir with something you can really work, like tongs. Continuous motion keeps the eggs from setting in clumps.

  7. Adjust and serve

    Loosen with more pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the sauce looks thick or tight. Serve at once in warm bowls with extra cheese and pepper.

Good to know

things I learned the hard way, so you can skip that part

  • Grate the cheese finely and use a block. Pre-grated cheese has anti-caking agents that keep the sauce from melting smoothly.
  • Pancetta is the most available swap for guanciale. Thick-cut bacon works but adds smokiness.
  • If the sauce does start to clump, add a splash of hot pasta water and stir fast. It usually recovers.
  • This recipe uses raw eggs cooked only by residual heat. If you're serving anyone vulnerable, use pasteurized eggs.
  • Storage. Best eaten immediately. Leftovers keep 1 day in the fridge; reheat in a skillet with a splash of water over low heat, stirring constantly. The sauce won't be as silky.

Questions, answered

asked and answered at the kitchen counter

How do I keep carbonara from scrambling?

Take the pan off the heat and let the pasta cool for 30 seconds before it meets the eggs. Mix in a bowl, not on the burner, and add pasta water to loosen as you go.

Does carbonara have cream in it?

Not in Italy and not here. The creaminess comes from egg yolks, melted cheese and starchy pasta water emulsifying into a sauce.

Can I use bacon instead of guanciale?

Yes. Pancetta is closest, and thick-cut bacon works too, though it tastes smokier. Cook it the same way and use all the fat.

Pecorino or Parmesan for carbonara?

Pecorino Romano is traditional and sharper and saltier. Parmesan is milder. Half and half is a good middle.

Why is my carbonara dry or clumpy?

The sauce needs more pasta water or more stirring. Keep adding hot water a tablespoon at a time and toss vigorously until it loosens.

Do I need to add garlic?

No. Traditional carbonara doesn't use it, and the guanciale and pepper carry the flavor.

From the table

Made it? I want the full report: first bite, best compliment, and who tried to take the leftovers home.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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