Dinner / Sandwiches, burgers & pizza

Smash Burgers with Crispy Edges

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A double smash burger with melted American cheese, pickles and sauce on a toasted potato bun, lacy crisp beef edges showing.

Press a cold ball of beef into a ripping-hot skillet and listen to it hiss. Two minutes later the edges are lacy and brown, the cheese is melting, and whoever stands closest to the stove claims the first one.

The short version

Roll cold beef into 2-ounce balls, smash each one flat on a ripping-hot cast iron skillet or griddle, salt, cook 1½ minutes until the edges are lacy, scrape and flip, add cheese, and cook 30 seconds more. Stack two patties per bun.

What makes ours better

why ours wins the argument at dinner

  • Keep the beef cold and the balls loose. Cold fat doesn't smear into the pan. Loosely rolled balls smash into rough, craggy patties, and the craggy edges are where the crisp comes from.

  • Salt after smashing, not before. Salt mixed into ground beef turns it tight and sausage-like. Seasoning the surface right as it hits the pan gives you flavor and a tender bite.

  • Scrape, don't lift. The browned crust sticks to the pan. A stiff spatula scraped flat under the patty takes all of it with the burger.

  • Make a ten-second sauce. Mayonnaise, ketchup, pickle and mustard mixed in a bowl tastes like a drive-in, and it's easier than shopping for a bottle.

What you need

the stars of the show

  • Mayonnaise¼ cup
  • Ketchup1 tablespoon
  • Dill pickle relish or minced pickles1 tablespoon
  • Yellow mustard1 teaspoon
  • 80/20 ground beef1 pound
  • Potato buns or soft hamburger buns4 large
  • Unsalted butter1 tablespoon
  • American cheese8 slices

Full ingredient list ↓

Prep
15 min
Cook
10 min
Total
25 min
Makes
4 double cheeseburgers

Ingredients

Makes 4 burgers

Sauce

Burgers

yes, all of the butter

Steps

apron on. phone down. mostly.

  1. Mix the sauce

    Stir the mayonnaise, ketchup, relish and mustard together in a small bowl.

  2. Ball up the beef

    Divide the beef into 8 loose 2-ounce balls (about 56 g each) and set them on a plate in the fridge. Don't pack them. Butter the cut sides of the buns.

    Cold beef smashes cleaner. Keep the balls in the fridge until the moment you cook.

  3. Toast the buns

    Heat a cast iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. Toast the buns, buttered side down, for 1 to 2 minutes until golden. Set aside. Turn the heat to high and let the pan get very hot, about 3 minutes, until a drop of water vanishes instantly.

    About 3 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  4. Smash

    Wipe the pan with the oil. Place 2 or 3 balls in the pan, well apart. Cover each with a square of parchment and smash with a stiff spatula, pressing hard for 10 seconds, until the patty is about ⅛-inch thick and lacy at the edge. Season with salt and pepper.

    Smash once and don't press again, which squeezes out juice.

  5. Cook until lacy

    Cook, without touching, for about 90 seconds, until the edges are dark brown and crisp and the top is no longer pink.

    About 2 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  6. Scrape, flip and cheese

    Slide a stiff spatula under each patty and scrape to free the crust. Flip. Lay a cheese slice on each and cook for 30 seconds, until the cheese melts. Stack a second patty on the first and move them to a plate.

    About 1 min. Cook mode has a timer for this step.

  7. Build the burgers

    Spread sauce on both halves of a toasted bun. Add onion, pickles and lettuce if you like, then set a stacked double patty on top. Cook the remaining balls in batches and serve right away.

Good to know

the stuff I’d tell you over the phone

  • Ground beef should be at least 20% fat. Lean beef gives a dry burger with no lacy edge.
  • No cast iron? A carbon steel pan or a heavy stainless skillet works. Avoid nonstick at this heat.
  • For single burgers, use a 4-ounce ball and a slightly longer cook of about 2 minutes on the first side.
  • Ventilate. It will smoke. Turn on the fan and open a window before you start.
  • Storage. Best eaten immediately. Leftover patties keep in the fridge for 3 days; reheat in a hot skillet for 1 minute per side. Sauce keeps for a week.

Questions, answered

asked and answered at the kitchen counter

What is the best meat for smash burgers?

80/20 ground chuck. The fat renders, crisps the edges and keeps the thin patty juicy.

Why do my smash burgers stick to the pan?

The pan isn't hot enough, or you flipped too early. Let a dark crust form for about 90 seconds, then slide the spatula under at a low angle and scrape.

Do I have to use parchment to smash?

It isn't required, but it stops the beef from sticking to the spatula and lets you press harder and more evenly.

How thin should a smash burger be?

About ⅛ inch, thin enough that the edges turn lacy and crisp. A 2-ounce ball smashes to about 4 inches across.

Are smash burgers safe to eat when thin?

Yes. A thin patty reaches the safe 160°F quickly, and the browned surface and clear-running juices are your cue that they're done.

Can I cook these on a flat top or griddle?

Yes, on a griddle or a flat top over high heat. Cook all the burgers in one go and toast the buns in the beef fat.

From the table

Made it? I want the full report: first bite, best compliment, and who tried to take the leftovers home.

Flour on your hands? Big steps, screen stays on.

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